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For a long time, North America only offered the worst versions of Lambrusco — inky, overly sweet varieties that earned a reputation for being “soda pop wine.” Now, finally, sommeliers are starting to bring in the good stuff as an easy-drinking alternative to rosé. When building out the drinks menu at Toronto’s Giulietta, beverage director Toni Weber gave Lambrusco a starring role. “It’s incredibly food-friendly, because it’s earthy, fruity, and
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